Spanning 1230km between the Queensland outback towns of Hebel and Charters Towers, this section of the Great Inland Way is far more than a long drive. The journey weaves past iconic historical country towns, cattle country, ancient gorges and sparkling gemfields. Together, it’s a perfect route for those travelling in an RV.
HEBEL TO ST GEORGE (165KM)
Hebel is the starting point for our Great Inland Way adventure, located just over the New South Wales/Queensland border 68km north of Lightning Ridge. This pint-sized town was reputedly once a hideout for the notorious Kelly bushranging gang and is steeped in Cobb & Co legend. We kicked off this road trip by dropping into the iconic 19th century Hebel Hotel for a taste of true outback hospitality. The pub is full of character and has been a welcoming stop for old-time drovers and more recent visitors for well over a century.
Dirranbandi is next. This rural town hugs the banks of the beautiful Balonne River. You won’t want to miss the bakery here: it’s famous far and wide for its sensational pies and scrumptious sweet treats.
From Dirranbandi, it’s a side trip to the small town of Thallon. This tiny town has spectacular silo art, comprising bold, colourful murals showcasing its wildlife, farming, and the local landscape. These towering grain silos have become a dazzling outback gallery and an absolute must-see for anyone exploring this unique corner of Queensland.
With food still on our mind, the legendary Nindigully pub was our lunch stop. As Queensland’s oldest pub, the ‘Gully’ is a real icon, home to the famous, jaw-droppingly huge ‘Road Train’ burger.
Arriving in St George, this charming town is also nestled alongside the Balonne River. The setting offers a perfect mix of historical character and natural beauty, making it an ideal place to settle in for a while.
For our visit, we made Pelican Rest Tourist Park our base for exploring the area. While in town, stroll the riverfront walkway to Jack Taylor Weir for tranquillity and scenic views, or take a peaceful Balonne River cruise for a different perspective. Then, sample regional flavours at Riversands Winery, where you can enjoy local wines and produce in a welcoming garden setting. For a truly unique experience, hop on a cotton farm tour to discover the story behind one of the area’s most important industries.
ST GEORGE TO WALLAROO STATION (348KM)
Leaving St George behind, it’s only 120km to the charming historical town of Surat. Once a bustling Cobb & Co changing station, the very last mail coach to run in Australia departed Surat in 1924. Visitors can step back in time at the town’s museum located in the original Cobb & Co store on Burrowes Street. It’s packed with fascinating treasures and relics from a bygone era, but it’s the stunning replica coach that takes centre stage – it’s a museum highlight.
Roma is 120km from Surat, so no need to spend a lot of time behind the wheel. Start your Roma adventure with a visit to the Big Rig, where you’ll dive into the fascinating story behind Australia’s oil and gas industry. Include the lively night show here if you can as well. Next up, make your way to the Roma Saleyards on a Tuesday morning for a guided tour of the facility. It’s the largest cattle-selling centre in the southern hemisphere and a completely unique outback experience.
While in town, visit St Paul’s Anglican Church on Bungil Street. This architectural gem dazzles with nearly 50 colourful leadlight and stained-glass windows, some of which have been lighting up the town for almost 150 years. Then, swing by Edwardes Street to marvel at Roma’s biggest Queensland bottle tree. Boasting a girth of a whopping 10m, this tree is a showstopper and well over 100 years old.
Continuing towards Injune, the scenery transforms from wide-open plains to forested ranges. As the gateway to the spectacular Carnarvon Ranges, Injune is the perfect launchpad for adventure. Don’t miss the old coal mine 4km south of town for a peek into Injune’s fascinating history.
Heading north, we happily indulged in luxury at Wallaroo Outback Retreat. Located on Wallaroo Station, we stayed in luxury while exploring some breathtaking natural formations and culturally significant sites on a full day guided tour.
WALLAROO STATION TO EMERALD (241KM)
Carnarvon Gorge in Carnarvon National Park steals the show when it comes to natural wonders on this fabulous journey. Towering cliffs, vibrant greenery and ancient cycads create a breathtaking backdrop for adventure. Slip on your walking boots and hit the trails for the best experiences at the gorge. There’s something for everyone, from leisurely 400m strolls to challenging treks stretching over 20km return. The Amphitheatre and Art Gallery are our must-sees, showcasing an incredible display of indigenous rock engravings and vivid ochre stencils sprawling across more than 30m.
For a bit of magic after dark, join a night safari to spot nocturnal locals like gliders, owls, and even platypus. After a big day exploring, kick back in comfort at Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge and enjoy some well-deserved relaxation.
If you take a quick 45-minute side trip west of Emerald, you’ll reach the sparkling town of Rubyvale. Sapphires and other gems steal the show throughout the Central Gemfields region, so it’s the ideal place to head underground. Discover how these dazzling treasures are unearthed on the Miners Heritage Walk In Tour before heading back to the surface to have a go at fossicking for your own glittering finds.
EMERALD TO CHARTERS TOWERS (475KM)
Leaving the dazzle of the gemfields behind, Clermont was once one of Queensland’s richest goldfields. Today this heritage town’s extra-wide streets lined with grand old buildings are reminders of those fortune-seeking days. Stretch your legs before leaving town and swing by the picturesque Hoods Lagoon for a peaceful walk around this scenic waterhole that teems with birdlife.
Coming to the end of our road trip, we’ve reached our grand finale: Charters Towers. Make the most of it and linger for a few days, because this town is the ultimate destination for exploring all the local treasures and beyond.
Begin with a visit to the legendary Venus Gold Battery, where you’ll be swept up in tales of the golden days. Then wander through the stunning Stock Exchange Arcade, once the bustling heart of North Queensland’s gold-trading scene. And don’t miss Australia’s largest handmade mosaic mural – it’s made with more than 5 million individual tiles and is an absolute beauty.
After a full-on day of sightseeing, you’ve no doubt worked up a hearty appetite. You’re well covered here because there’s no shortage of legendary Charters Towers pubs oozing with history, with some being around since the gold rush days. And for a show-stopping end to this road trip, head to Towers Hill in the late afternoon to be treated by sweeping sunset vistas that are simply unforgettable.
WRAPPING UP
Take our word for it – this leg of the Great Inland Way is one road trip you’ll want to add to your list. Whether you’re keen on history, outback pubs, nature, or simply the thrill of being on the open road, this route has it all. Be sure to allow plenty of time because it’s the type of trip where you’ll want to take things slow and soak in every moment.
ROUTE DETAILS
It’s 1200km from Hebel to Charters Towers along the Great Inland Way. In its entirety, the route starts in Sydney and takes in much of central New South Wales before reaching Queensland. The route continues through outback Queensland, ending at Cooktown, for a total distance of 3,005km.
